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The un-forbidden city
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Ahmed Tharwa |
Al-Qahira, Cairo, The
Triumphant, was built in the year 969 by the Sicilian general and
former slave Gawhar, who converted to Islam. He was sent by the new Caliph
l-Muez Ledin-Ellah to capture Egypt and expand his Shiite Empire. The new
capital was situated so that it was protected by the Nile on the east and
the hills of the Muqattam in the west. And although it started as a
private mansion for the Caliph, its doors were open later for all
citizens; approximately 18 millions Egyptians have accepted the invitation
and made the city their permanent home since. Visiting Cairo last month
and standing on the top of the citadel in the heart of the city, you can
see through the thick air a striking collage of five thousand years of
history displayed before your eyes: ancient, Coptic, Islamic and modern
architecture congregate within walking distance, creating a mosaic of rich
history of multiculturalism and diversity. What is amazing about life in
Cairo city, the mother of the world as Cairoans like to call it – the
total harmonious cohabitation in public spaces, where every inch in the
city is used with such ingenious efficiency. In Cairo city nothing is
forbidden, people would walk, work, trade, play, build and sit anywhere as
they please, turning the city of 18 million people into one massive
communal village. Cairoans are mindful of unwritten rules and norms;
freely walk in the street weaving a human chain around the barely moving
cars, everyone in Cairo is fighting for their own private space. Cairoans
have a great ability to cope with choias and would do what it takes to
free themselves from the ugly limitation of planning. As I was standing on
the sidewalk by the parked Cars, as neglected skinny cats resting under
them, taking a refuge from the brutality of human neglect. A loud voice
started thundering from thousands of mosques around the city calling for
prayer, breaking the thick air with refreshing spirit. Suddenly the human
voice of the Moazen sheds a personal meaning on everything around
me. Slowly, the smog and populated air withered away, the city’s imputable
noise had diminished into a distant background, and the chaotic traffic
turned into a well choreographed dance. Five times a day from thousand of
mosques’ minarets everywhere, comes the calls “Allah Akbar Allah Akber”
(God is greater, god is greater), reminding Cairoans of their own human
infallible spirit, providing them with a much needed spiritual break from
the demanding life of materials pursuit, people will stop for a few
minutes to reflect and to pray; a great mix of choreographic of physical
and spiritual movements, have you had your break today.
Ahmed 2/14/05
Freelance Writer
Producer and Host of the
Arab American TV show BelAhdan
www.belahdan.com
952-933-6825
Falafel Warfare | Why do you hate us? | It takes a Moslem village to rai | The un-forbidden city
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