Ahmed Tharwat is host of the Arab-American show "Belahdan," which airs on Twin Cities Public Television in Minnesota. He can be reached at www.belahdan.com. He is a contributor to DiversityInc.

Food fight! Like all immigrants, Arab Americans in tough times would seek comfort and refuge in the warmness of their ethnic foods. As their nomad ancestors had done for hundreds of years before them, carrying their food wherever they go would save them from the harsh inhospitable desert terrain. Uh … the frying sizzling of falafel, the richness aroma of shaworma (Gyro), the tanning smoothness of baba ghannou and hummus, the beauty of artful displays of meza and the heavy sweetness of baklava all take us back to the comfort and security of our home. But no other Middle Eastern food reflects our ethnicity and identity as feta cheese; we have as many different kinds of feta cheese as nationalities--Egyptian, Greek, Lebanese, Moroccan and Palestinian, and we try them all. So if you want to measure the Arab-American melting-pot index in the U.S., don't look at the employment or housing index; look at the consumption of feta index and its ratio to the consumption of American cheese.

Americans seems to treat cheese as dead food that is wrapped in plastic bags and kept in the refrigerator like corpses. Arabs treat cheese like fresh meat that should be cut before your eyes and kept in the open for everyone to see and smell. Second-generation Arab-American children, however, lose this reverence right after their first trip to McDonald's and experience the taste of the melted cheese in their Happy Meal.

Early on, feta cheese proudly accepted its prominent culinary status in our house. Every morning at breakfast, I prepare for my daughter the Egyptian breakfast trio: feta cheese, pita bread and black olives. My daughter had enjoyed eating it as much as listening to my Egyptian-boy stories. "Tell me a story when you are little boy," she always asked me playfully.

Now I have to quietly sneak my feta in her breakfast sandwich under the cover of American cheese, which is perfectly fine with me. I understand her feelings. When I was a youngster growing up in an Egyptian village in the '60s, our school used to get American aid in the form of a big block of wrapped cheese. I was so fascinated when for the first time I experienced cheese that was different in test and color, not to mention its beautiful glossy plastic wraps. Under protest from my resentful parents, I deserted my ethnic feta cheese and in its place I demanded the colorful American cheese, which was as flashy as America movies. Rejecting your native feta is like rejecting your identity; here went the villager's attitude.

My wife and I are now very careful about bringing this ethnic culinary warfare to our family breakfast table. To reinforce our daughter's ethnicity and multicultural heritage, American cheese and feta cheese will peacefully coexist on our breakfast table along with the cereals. However, lately, and in the midst of post-9/11 and the war-on-Iraq headlines, the situation at our household has gotten a little edgy and our homeland-security alarm system could reach color red in a hurry. Then one cheese will be ethnically cleansed from our breakfast table. "It smells bad and too sheepish," my wife has started protesting loudly, declaring this chemical warfare and humiliating my beloved feta, triggering my defense sequence … the American cheese would become the infidel's cheese. My daughter, who never was interested in this type of table manner, would quietly walk away with her cereal, to the basement, better known now in our household as the bunker.